Oct 11th, 07, 12:58 PM
FAQ for newcomers - Post your dolls related questions here
As thread title suggested, this is a FAQ thread created to cater to the questions posted by newcomers to the whole dolls collecting hobby. I am sure at certain point of time, everyone of us started out as a newbie to this hobby with 101 questions in mind.
So, for the newcomers to the SGDollfies section or someone newly exposed to the local dolls collecting scene and would like to find out more about dolls, please post your questions away. I am sure fellow SGcafers and doll owners would be more than obliged to help out.
But please post conclusive questions in regards to dolls and do not spam. I hope for the kind understanding and patience of everyone involved in answering the questions too! I will try to get a list of frequently asked questions to be made into an official FAQ for Useful BJD Links.
Oh, and this thread does not entertain "Where to find..." questions since these could be pretty much answered in Where to find list
PLEASE POST QUESTIONS, NO RANDOM CHIT CHAT. THANKS
Last edited by Lilaciel; Oct 17th, 07 at 05:30 PM.
Oct 11th, 07, 12:58 PM
I shall kick off this thread by posting a few examples:
Q1.) What are dolls?
Q2.) What are BJD (Balls Jointed Dolls)?
Q3.) How much do they cost?
Q4.) Where do you buy them?
Q5.) How do you buy them from overseas online dolls site?
Q6.) Anywhere I can find out more information about dolls?
Q7.) Can I buy them locally in Singapore?
Q8.) What sizes do they come in?
Q9.) What "types" of dolls are there
Q10.) What are the skintones available?
Questions can be answered simply by quoting in replies post below.
Etc etc etc You get the drill. These are questions pertaining to dolls-related queries. Of cos, the correct terms might not be used at all time but I am sure you will soon grown used to the correct terms in time to come soon.
Last edited by Lilaciel; Oct 11th, 07 at 01:13 PM.
Oct 11th, 07, 03:35 PM
-what can be used on them, what cannot be used?[eg.thinner,alcohol,glue]
Elitism...pffttttt... - Sochii
Oct 11th, 07, 08:59 PM
Are none resin doll considered as BJD?
Oct 13th, 07, 03:37 AM
The peak of Mt. Pancake
Originally Posted by hime-hime
i'm assuming your question means "are non-resin dolls considered BJDs?"
this question is iffy because many people use DoA's criteria to define what is considered a BJD and what isn't. that's mainly because they're one of the largest international doll forums on the internet. that said, they aren't the 'be all' and 'end all' of the fandom. but they do have a reasonable amount of say in it.
therefore, if we're subscribing to DoA's criteria of BJDs, then a BJD is required to meet the following criteria (at least 7 out of the 8):
1. Made of resin
2. Articulated using ball-and-socket type joints (or a combination of ball-and-socket joints and hinge or sliding joints)
3. Strung with elastic or similar material
4. Have a 2+ part head with changeable eyes
5. Can wear a wig with brushable hair
6. Can wear shoes and cloth clothing
7. Intended by manufacturer for customization
8. Consistent with the style of other dolls presently allowed in terms of facial and body proportioning and overall aesthetic style.
as DoA is an ABJD (asian BJD) forum, they require #8 to be a mandatory criteria.
going by their checklist, as long as your doll meets 7 of those criteria, it's considered an ABJD.
that said, DoA is DoA and not this forum. different boards have different rules for what they define a BJD to be.
if this is in respo se to the "AA resin questions" thread, i actually have no problem with vinyl dolls as long as they aren't falsely advertised to be something they are not. going by the above list, they clearly fit into what is normally defined to be a BJD. however, if they really aren't resin, they ought to be advertised as such, for other people to decide for themselves if that's something that they want to get. if they are resin, then yay, good for you. though given the weight, it might be prudent to question the percentage of resin to filler material.
different people also get dolls for differnt reasons, and require their dolls to meet certain personal criteria.
i personally want all my dolls to fit into my preferred aesthetic, which is why i seem to buy from only certain companies, since i like the characteristics their sculpts have. i also like certain types of bodies. in closer reference to the 'is resin important' part of this question, i started off with SD-sized dolls because i liked the weight. therefore having a doll made of solid resin (which would be heavier than a less dense material) is important to me.
another person might not view weight as such an important criteria in a doll, or might even prefer a lighter doll for portability reasons, therefore it's very personal.
many owners (especially longer-time owners) may consider a non-resin (e.g. hard vinyl) BJD to be of lesser quality because it would be true. vinyl is cheaper and generally less durable/of lower quality than resin. if this doesn't bother you, and it's not a big thing to you that your doll is of a lower quality because you are aware that the price you paid was far lower, then the question about whether casting material is ultimately so important shouldn't bug you too much.
Oct 13th, 07, 04:04 AM
The peak of Mt. Pancake
oil-based materials have long been a big no-no for resin (and vinyl) dolls, as the oil predisposes the material to being stained. therefore all things with oil in them (oil-based markers, pastels, paints, human makeup with oil content, oil-based solvents, etc) should not be used on these dolls.
Originally Posted by Sochii
depending on what the doll is made of, certain solvents are not recommended. acetone has long been said to be harmful/too strong for certain resin types/company resin types. one especially known company resin is LUTS/CP resin. there was once a disclaimer NOT to use acetone on CP dolls, and several owners have found that acetone caused their dolls (CP and otherwise) to 'melt'/deform.
acetone, in general, can make doll resin more pliable, and customizers have reported that after soaking a head in acetone/acetone solutions, they have found soft 'bubble'-like deformations in the head that can be poked at. as the head dries and the acetone evaporates, most of this pliability seems to leave as well. however, not all resin can withstand acetone to that level. some simply...melt.
acetone is also not recommended for materials less durable than resin, like hard/soft vinyl.
thinner (if not oil-based) can be used on resin. some people have reported it to yellow their dolls, though to varying degrees. mr colour thinner does not seem to have that effect, for those unwilling to try out regular $3/bottle thinner for fear of yellowing. thinner is also said to de-surface materials like vinyl, and may not be the solvent of choice if you intend to use it on such dolls. if the vinyl doll part (e.g. head) is only for practice reasons, however, and you don't intend for it to remain perfect forever, then by all means, carry on.
markers are often a popular choice for those wanting to try out faceups for the first time, as they are generally easier to handle than paints. most markers, however are not recommended, oil-based or not, because their pigments tend to stain. araki (of unoa fame) has mentioned using gundam markers to faceup his unoas (using them as eyeliner, i believe). not sure how the chemical composition of gundam markers variest from the regular painting kind, since i assume that if you can't take it off a gundam, you're not going to be able to take it off a doll. perhaps one of the local faceup artists can comment on this?
types of paints frequently used for faceups are acrylic paints. there is different feedback for different brands of acrylic paint, and since i don't use acrylic paint, i'm not in a position to say which is best. most people like liquitex for the quality, though. poster paints have been outed as not a good medium for faceups, and obviously paints that are oil-based are NOT GOOD.
water-soluble/watercolour coloured pencils are also frequently used as faceup material. don't use wax/oil-based pencils/crayons. some people have mentioned that the dark colours are prone to staining if not well-sealed. watercolour pencils are generally easy to get a hold of, though if you prefer sharp, clean lines for your faceups, this is not the way to go, since spraying sealant tends to blur the lines a bit, since the colours are soluble.
non-oil-based pastels are commonly used in faceups as well. do not use hard pastel chalks, as they do not grind well. frequently used are the soft pastels. like coloured pencils, some people have reported that dark colours (depending on the brand as well) can stain if the doll is not well-sealed.
on the topic of safe glues, i've heard that PVC glue is not ideal as the chlorine component in the glue can dissociate into corrosive ions (the chlorine ion, perhaps?) and eat away at the resin. PVA glue, a.k.a. the white glue in the white bottles that is frequently used in arts and crafts, seems to be quite safe. for superglues, it may or may not depend on the brand, but i've heard some people say that superglue is too strong and can eat away at the resin. others have reported no ill-effects of using superglue (to mend broken parts), however.
hot glue is pretty safe for use on dolls as long as the glue isn't heated to high temperatures. many people use them for sueding doll joints (obviously, you don't put the joint in articulation while the glue is still wet), and volks uses hot glue to glue their eyes in their FCS dolls (not sure about their regular dolls). so hot glue is generally a safe option for glues.
if there are materials that you want to try on your doll but are unsure of, the best thing to do is try it on a part of your doll that is concealed (e.g. the headcap) so that if anything happens, it's not like it's very visible.
another option is to get optional parts from the same company (decause different companies use different resin mixtures) and test those materials on them. in my case, i can use LUTS neck pieces. also take note that effects of the materials you are using may not occur instantly. often (in the case of yellowing or staining), they take time to occur. so just because it doesn't stain if you try it on now and remove it in the next minute doesn't mean it definitely will not stain.
DISCLAIMER: i'm not a faceup artist or doll modder. i just read a lot and hang out on forums with lots of horror stories.
Oct 15th, 07, 04:49 PM
mi friend say she believes dollfies have souls and will only recgonise their original owner..is that one of the reasons(other than it's not new, may have faults...etc) u consider when purchasing a dollfie?
Oct 15th, 07, 05:04 PM
I would not really consider this as a concrete question to ask in regards to questions relating to dolls under consideration for a FAQ. What I mean are questions with a clearcut answer and not open to discussion.
Originally Posted by DM_cry
However, I can assure you that you can find your query answered in this thread " Do you believe dolls have souls "
Oct 15th, 07, 05:18 PM
Originally Posted by Lilaciel
hmm...i read alrdy..the thread only talks about whether they believe in souls or not in dollfies but not if it is a factor to be considered when purchasing a doll...
Last edited by DM_cry; Oct 15th, 07 at 05:25 PM.
Oct 15th, 07, 09:55 PM
sry i noob
wad the different from sd1/4 and msd 1/4....
Oct 15th, 07, 10:03 PM
i think you got this wrong. but anyway....
Originally Posted by ~mizuki~
SD size is refered as 1/3 (like ratio in size. 1:3)
MSD size is refered as 1/4
Sd size ranges from 58-60 cm(This one is standardized) and possibly 70-80cm tho i think thats 2/3 already ^^;
MSD size ranges from 40-48cm
Oct 15th, 07, 10:23 PM
70/80 cm ones are SD17 i think.
Oct 15th, 07, 10:59 PM
The peak of Mt. Pancake
icy>> SD17 is a different thing altogether. it's a volks sizing of SD doll. currently, reisner is the only SD17. just like SD16 is restricted to only yukinojo, olivia, amelia, garnet and ruby.
70-80cm dolls are just bigger SD dolls.
Oct 15th, 07, 11:01 PM
The peak of Mt. Pancake
in which case, it's better if you bring it up there, since it's a related topic, as this question is more of a discussion topic than an actual question. questions in Q&A are more of questions with concrete answers. duscussion threads are for topics which are debateable, depend on the opinion of others, etc.
Originally Posted by DM_cry
that's why they're called discussion threads.
because you discuss them.
Oct 16th, 07, 12:14 AM
another question...anyone knows where to get a link to market rate of adopting 2nd hand dolls?..I tried searching on DOA..I've got 2nd hand clothings..! i wanna find out the market price of a 2nd hand bjd..